Steeped in a rich and colourful history, the city of Istanbul,
Turkey's largest, straddles the continents of Europe and Asia. It is
here that towering minarets, as if in a fabled tale of the Arabian
Nights, soar majestically into the skies, while imposing mosques,
ancient castles and lavish palaces enhance the city's undulating
skyline. Historically, Istanbul dates back for more than 2000 years,
though the earliest of Turkey's inhabitants, the Catal Hoyuk have been
known to exist long before that. Founded by a seafaring tribe from
Megara in about 650 B.C., the city was named Byzantium. It was Emperor
Constantine who built and renamed the city, dedicating the New Rome of
Constantinople and moving the centre of the Roman Empire from Italian
shores to what is now Istanbul. As Constantinople, the city flourished
from 330 to 1453 A.D. What followed next was the birth of the Ottoman
Empire and the conquest of Constantinople by Mehmet II. Constantinople
was to be no more. The new city was proclaimed Istanbul and served as
the capital of Turkey till 1922, when the seat of the government was
moved to Ankara. Istanbul has its fill of contrasts which blend the
old and the new. A metropolis of teeming avenues give way to old
cobbled stone alleys and quaint wooden villas. High-rise hotels,
elegant restaurants and casinos exude a cosmopolitant air, providing
the comforts for pleasure seekers, while rustic coffee shops serve
strong freshly-brewed Turkish coffee and hot cay (tea) in tiny glasses
on plates and vendors carve strips of doner kebabs for a passer-by or
two. Istanbul is sited on both sides of the scenic strait of the
Bosphorus, linking the East and the West. Interestingly, it is the
Western or European half of the city which houses its magnificent
attractions. A comprehensive tour of this treasure trove of Turkish
delights would more often than not begin in the old city, the land
lodged between the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. Musts on any
discovery itinerary would include the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Saint
Sophia, the Mosque of Sulaiman the Magnificent, the second-century
Hippodrome, site of ancient chariot races, the Topkapi Palace and its
Harem, the Grand Bazaar, and the somewhat eerie Yerebatan Cistern
Basilica, an underground palace housing large Corinthian columns.
Equally captivating are the Kariye Museum, the Archaelogical Museum,
the Dolmabahce Palace as well as the European and Anatolian
fortresses. Revered as a masterpiece in the Islamic world, the Sultan
Ahmet Mosque mesmerises visitors with specimens of classical Turkish
art and is also known as the Blue Mosque by virtue of the dominance of
more than 20,000 handmade blue Iznik ceramic tiles used in its
interior. Easily distinguished by six minarets (the only mosque in the
world to have this number), this huge mosque houses amazing
stained-glass windows, a beautiful central cupola 23.5 metres in
diameter, a marble minber (pulpit) and mural inscriptions featuring
verses of the Koran. A short walk from the Blue Mosque brings you face
to face with Saint Sophia, an ancient basilica reputed to be one of
the finest examples of architecture of all time. Truly engaging, Saint
Sophia features a big dome that rises 50 metres high, numerous mosaic
Christian murals, Byzantine columns and priceless artifacts. When the
Turks conquered Istanbul, Saint Sophia was converted into a mosque
which explains the presence of several Islamic ornaments. After
serving as a place of Christian worship for 916 years and as a mosque
for 477, Saint Sophia was made a museum, to be admired by visitors of
any race and creed. Deemed as one of the most splendid mosques in
Istanbul, the Mosque of Sulaiman the Magnificent is a teutonic beauty
built in the mid 1500s. Four minarets frame an astonishing huge dome.
Walls are adorned with Turkish calligraphy while stained-glass windows
depicting regional motifs grace the area of the mihrab (prayer niche).
The most striking monument is the Topkapi Palace, the oldest and
largest of its kind in the world. Nestled where the acropolis of
Byzantium once stood, the 700,000 sq metres palace overlooks the
Golden Horn, Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara. You'll need more than just
several hours to scrutinise the remarkable collection of Chinese and
Japanese porcelain, European chinaware, glassware and silverware on
display. The palace also boasts a fine exhibition of imperial costumes
and a superb collection of treasures that run the gamut from
jewel-studded helmets and objects dart to the famous 18th century
Topkapi dagger festooned with four large eye-catching emeralds and
gleaming diamonds. Another showpiece, the 86-carat pear-shaped
Spoonmaker's Diamond, regarded as among the world's largest, is
embraced by two rows of 49 brilliant-cut diamonds embedded in gold.
The diamond, as legend denotes, draws its origin from its sale by a
poor spoonmaker, who unaware of its value traded this gem for a few
mere wooden spoons. Made up of 400 rooms, the Topkapi Harem provided
the living quarters of the mother, sisters, wives, concubines and
children of the Ottoman sultans. On strolling through the corridors
and halls of the Harem, one can feast one's eyes on the luxury of this
place. For travelers with time on their hands, a visit to Chora and
its Kariye Museum is certain to enthrall. Located outside the city
centre, this small Roman church is the home of outstanding Byzantine
frescoes. Yet another interesting option is a tour of the Shrine of
Eyub Ensari, the standard bearer of Prophet Mohamed. Old cemetries on
a hill are sited near this Shrine which draws thousands of pilgrims.
An uphill climb through these cemetries takes you to the famous Pierre
Loti, a cosy cafe unveiling engaging panoramas of the Golden Horn.
Like a typical tourist who enjoys a bird's eye view of the city, I
looked for a night-time alternative to Pierre Loti, as walking through
a cemetry in the gloom and bleak of winter was surely nobody's idea of
a romantic evening. The best night view I found was offered by a
roof-top restaurant, aptly named Panorama at the Etap Marmara Hotel in
Taksim Square. From here, sans the smog of Istanbul's pollution made
visible by day, the view of the old city basking in the moonlight, its
minarets beguiling and aglow, was a treat one will never forget.
Travelers, whether on a budget or otherwise, will tell you that it's
near impossible to avoid picking up a souvenir or two. Ethnic buys in
Istanbul include Turkish carpets, woven kilims, leather and suede
goods, hand-painted (predominately in shades of blue) tiles,
wall-hanging plates and crockery, silverware, brassware, hand-beaten
copper as well as onyx items, embroidered bags, jewellery, and pipes
intricately carved out of meerschaum stone.
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